Impressions of Bolivia

Of all South American countries, Bolivia is probably the most authentic one, with a largely indigenous population. Bolivia became independent from Spain in 1825, more or less together with neighbouring Argentina, Chile, Perú and Portugal's colony of Brazil. But that does not mean that these countries always pulled on the same side of the string afterwards. The Bolivians know everything about that, their history is a history of territorial loss! In 1879 Bolivia teamed up with Perú against Chile in a 'Salpeter War' over access to the nitrate deposits in what is now Northern Chile. Chile won, annexed the Easter Island from Perú and the Pacific Ocean provinces from Bolivia, devastatingly turning the latter into a landlocked country; in 1862 and 1883 the Argentinian brothers moved their border quite a bit to the north from Salta at the expense of Bolivia; and in 1903 Brazil considered that it could not stay behind and it too needed to do something, after all it required more Amazonian territory to respond to booming world demand for rubber. Even Paraguay did not stay behind and obtained territorial gains at the end of the Chaco War with Bolivia between 1932 and 1935.

Less territory, but two capitals: yes, the 'Pluri-ethnic Republic of Bolivia' is a complicated country. Initially Sucre was the capital, based on the proximity of the Potosí silver mines and on conservative political rule. But La Paz grew as a city, had access to the country's tin mines and was more liberal-minded. Conservatives and Liberals got into a fight, Liberals won the struggle.... and La Paz became the capital in a compromise leaving the seat of judicial power in Sucre, as a matter of consolation.

Bolivia is a turbulent, but also a wonderful country. Its many faces include the capital and Andean region of La Paz, at 4,000 metres above the sea, the equally high altitude city of silver mines, Potosí, and the Uyuni and Lipez desert lands near the borders with Chile and Argentina, where cars climb up to 5,000 metres and where one crosses the largest natural salt pan in the world, the 'Salar de Uyuni'. It's advisable to start the climb to high altitude in Sucre, which is 'only' at 2,000 metres and offers the best of the best of Bolivia's colonial architecture. And, of course, Bolivia is also the semi-tropical lowlands in the southeast, around the second major city of Santa Cruz, the gateway to the Chiquitanía of 17th century Jesuit missions near the border with Paraguay and Brazilian Amazonia. Compared to neighbouring Brazil and Argentina, Bolivia does not seem to be a vast country, but distances are still very considerable and the variety of landscapes and culture is large, as will appear when you browse through the various reports taking you on an authentic and appealing voyage.

Bolivia around La Paz